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Saturday, June 16, 2012

THAILAND 13 - Land of Smiles


Pakkret is the city within the province of Nonthaburi where we lived.

"When life floods, go fishing."  – The Opportunist

After a week of relaxation in Kanchanuburi, Justin helping to tear down a wall, and a realistic firework display/reenactment of the bombing of the Bridge over the River Kwai, it was time to head back home to Pakkret, Nonthaburi for Justin’s first day of school.

Justin is the second one from the right.  After three attempts they finally pull down the wall.

The flooding in our area had gone down enough that most of the major roads were now open, but cars still lined the sides of the elevated freeways for safe keeping from the still-abundant flooding.  Don Meuang airport was submerged in the flood waters, and the planes rested their swollen bellies in a large lake which was once the glorious city of Bangkok.  Because the flooding was beginning to recede our seven hour road trip to Kanchanuburi had been reduced to a grateful three hours and before long we were home.



Little restaurants were starting to reopen as their owners were returning from their flood torn homes in the surrounding cities.  Our motorcycle ride around the city showed us the sincerely happy and resourceful spirit of the Thai people.  



Even though they now had to ride in a boat, rather than their scooter or the bus, to get down the street from their flooded homes they were still smiling.  

A man floats by our bus on the other side of the very submerged road.

People used the flood as an opportunity to get chores done like washing their trucks – the water was right there, all they had to do was bring the bucket, or fishing – they no longer had to walk down to the canal they could just step outside their front door with their net or pole, or they could relax and enjoy the ride to the next town in their inner-tube.  

A man washes his truck in the flood waters.  Seems a bit counterproductive to me. . .

Everywhere we looked people were smiling, laughing, and carrying on with their life as though this flood was a normal part of their everyday lives. 

The Thai people are very resourceful, here they are using a large piece of Styrofoam to float upon.

People tell Justin and I that we have some of the worst luck they have ever witnessed or heard of.  We don’t tend to disagree with that statement, but at the same time we somehow manage to have one of the most amazing lives and we are daily blessed with more than we deserve.  Today was one of those days.  Our little netbook computer was starting to retire, and one of my dearest friends back home wouldn't hear of us not being able to communicate with our friends and family back home so he bought us a computer for our wedding/Christmas present - an extremely generous gift that I could never repay. 

But here in Thailand just because you have the money to get a computer doesn't mean that you can hop over to the nearest Best Buy and pick one up.  Because of the flooding the stores weren't just out of food and water but paper products, clothing, and electronics as well.  At one o’clock in the afternoon we started to the nearest Tesco Lotus (the equivalent of Wal-Mart), but they were all sold out of the model that we wanted.  We took the model number up to the customer service counter to see if they could call around to the surrounding stores and check if there were any available elsewhere.  Try communicating that without speaking the language! A combination of Justin’s rudimentary pieced together Thai and a few rounds of charades later we finally convinced the customer service representative to call around for us.

* * Challenge: Try communicating with another person using a language that they don’t understand.  Use hand motions, facial expressions, charades, and speak using only made up words.  
After 5 minutes you’ll have a better understanding about what daily life is like for us. * * 

The operator looked at us as she placed the call, her face a combination of doubt and wonder.  A few phone calls later and success! She was able to locate three stores in the surrounding area that had more than one computer available in the model that we wanted.  We knew this because she wrote three cities on a piece of paper, that we didn't recognize, with numbers next to them.

Justin pointed to one of the names and asked in Thai how far away it was.  She shook her head and spoke rapidly in Thai.  A few rounds of charades later and we came to the understanding that the Tesco Lotus with the most computers available was too flooded for motorcycles but that cars could go there. 

We had already spent two hours trying to purchase a computer at this point.  We weren't really familiar with the surrounding cities yet, but what better way to get familiar with them than to go on a wild goose chase around the city!

We consulted our map, got on our motorcycle, and headed out; and as is our MO - with only a few hours of sunlight left.  The closest store was only 15 kilometers away (about 12 miles), but the road on the way was very flooded.

“Should we attempt it?” Justin asked me as our bike came to a complete stop in front of a road sunk beneath three or more feet of water.

“Hmmm . . .” I paused to gather as much information as possible about the situation, “Other scooters and cars are doing it.” 

You know what they say, when in Rome! Or in our case the familiar saying became, when in Thailand! It always gave us the go ahead to do something dangerous, illegal, or against our nature.

We pressed on.  We lifted our feet to try and keep our sandals as dry as possible.  Cars came at us from all directions, and Justin’s voice rang out concerned against the mayhem, “Which way do I go?”

“Follow the other bikes!” I shouted against the sound of the splashing water.  (Watch video here)


Eventually the water began to recede and we were safe on the other side only to be thwarted by another flooded road two miles up the road.  After watching a few trucks pass through the flooded road it was clear that it was too deep for our bike and we didn't know what the road ahead would bring.  After contemplating hitchhiking in one of the trucks that went by and then deciding that we didn't really want to be hitchhiking back in the dark; we contemplated our situation.  Although disappointed that our immense efforts to get to the Tesco Lotus were hindered for the moment, we sat on our bike watching in amazement at a man who intentionally parked his box truck in the water so that it could be washed more conveniently. 


Two stores down, two more on the list to try, and we decided that we should try the one where ‘motorcycles couldn't go’.  Once again we consulted our map and rode off towards the store.  Sure enough the streets were too flooded for scooters – even the bravest ones, and we were forced to park a block away.  There were planks set up all over the city to make it more convenient for people to walk to stores, major freeways, or roads that weren't as flooded, and this store was no exception.  We balanced delicately atop the planks and sandbags lining the side of the street and turned our nose up at the murky waters full of sewage, trash, and automobile oil.  I held my breath not only against the stench but also my fear of falling into the caliginous deep.  

Store three was yet another unsuccessful attempt, and we stubbornly headed off to our last ditch effort before it became too dark to navigate the deluged streets. 

The dirty waters sparkled playfully with the last hues of the dying sun - it nearly caused you to forget that you were riding through human and animal waste.  The streets became even more confusing, and to top off our tumultuous undertaking it began to sprinkle.  The street lamps flickered dully against the darkening skies.  The light from the lamps as well as the bright beams of the headlights from other vehicles reflected in every drop, and the water on the streets blurred our vision.

“I think we turn here, but I’m not sure.” Justin squinted into the night and strained his neck to peer down the road to our left.

“Maybe we should ask someone then.”  I posed an unlikely suggestion.  Getting a man to stop and ask for directions is asking him to admit that he doesn't have full control of the situation and that directly affects his manhood.  Fortunately for me Justin doesn't mind admitting that he doesn't have the first clue what he is doing, and he actually enjoys asking for directions because he gets to show off . . . I mean practice his knowledge of the native language. 

We pulled over to where a man was standing on the corner of the street.  “Yahk pay Tesco Lotus.  Yu thi nai na kup.” (I want to go to Tesco Lotus.  Where is it?)

The man’s face scrunched up in confusion as he held a hand up to his ear. 

Justin repeated, “Tesco Lotus.”

The man tried to repeat what Justin said, but stumbled with the words and ended up shaking his head.

“Te-sss-cooo Looo-tu-sss.” Justin said slowly as though the man may be hard of hearing.

“Oh!” The man exclaimed, “Tecco Lotaaaa!” He proceeded to ramble on instructions in Thai while pointing down the street, and then waving his hand to suggest it was on the left side of the street.

I nearly smacked my head in disbelief and remembrance.  Of course!  They don’t say their s’s! And because they speak with a tonal language we have to put on an Asian accent and add a strong emphasis on the ‘a’.

Every adventure away from the protected dry pocket that is our apartment complex we learned something new.  Even if it was just the location of a few more stores and the simple, but extremely helpful, fact that you had to speak words – even English names – with an Asian accent in order to be understood.

I was starting to get pretty tired from our little excursion, and this was our last chance before we had to call it a night.  We walked into the brightly lit Tesco Lotus only to be stopped half way through the store by a luring sound.  Our eyes closed, our heads cocked to one side we stood transfixed in the middle of the aisle.  What was this glorious sound?

Our bodies moved without permission as though possessed by the strange elixir in the air, twitching, swaying, and popping.  Our feet shuffled, tapped, and two stepped their way towards the sound.  We stopped.  Our eyes opened; we stood before a large television with surround sound speakers bursting forth music sung in a language that our ears couldn't understand but our souls connected with. 

“What is it?” I whispered in awe to no one in particular.  

Justin shook his head in bewilderment. 

“It’s the most beautiful thing I've ever heard.”  I cooed.

The reggae/rap/contemporary/pop song sung by a group whose ethnicity and language eluded me, floated throughout the store caressing the aisles and provoking passion amongst its listeners. 

“Is no one else hearing this?” I looked around only slightly broken from its spell.  “I must have it,” my words uttered cold, possessive, and covetous.

“I’ll try to ask someone who it is.” Justin half aware of his actions called on a store clerk nearby.  

Our eyes transfixed on the television we tried to ask how we too could possess this magical sound.  The clerk, confused by our fascination with the music, showed us a book full of karaoke songs.  We looked down at the book and tried to ask who it was that was singing.  He only pointed towards the television and then back at the book. 

“Are we really so music deprived that this is the most amazing music we have ever heard?”  I asked Justin, concerned for our sanity. 

We had lost our ipod, and only source of music, a month ago in Phuket when our room was flooded, and we had only experienced less than fantastic music while traveling through Nepal. 

“We need music desperately.” I shook my head at our music deprived souls, and pulled Justin towards the electronics counter.

Finally our computer was in stock, and would be available for us in thirty minutes.  They had to find one in the back room, inspect the contents, and then they would allow us to make the purchase.  We had already been searching for the computer for seven hours – what’s another half an hour?  

“I just want to go home, grab a beer, and watch a movie.” Justin sighed.

“A movie! We haven’t watched a movie, or anything in ages!” I squealed excitedly, “That sounds amazing! Do you want to go to the movie store on the way home?” 

A large grin and a definitive nod was all I needed to send my face into a cheek breaking smile.

A half an hour later we finally had our computer! But no, alas it is not that easy.  My mind fills with bemused laughter as we realize that the computer is DOS only, and that we have to go somewhere else to have Windows installed onto the hard drive. 

I won’t bore you with the frustrating details of getting to a store that is closing within a half hour, or running through a large mall trying every computer shop only to have it close right before you get there or to be told that they don’t sell it and they don’t know (because of lack of communication) how to tell you who does, or finally reaching the last floor of the mall to find the store and successfully have Windows (legally or illegally – I’m not sure) installed, only to get home exhausted after ten hours to discover that there is an error in the installation . . . (Pause to breathe) Did I mention that the movie store near us closed 5 minutes early, and the other one had closed up for good?  Or that we finally broke down and bought a movie only to have the computer say that there was an error in the player?  (Sigh)

Yes, life in Thailand is oh so good, a bit challenging at times, but good.  And although it may be a bit ironic, I must admit we have some of the worst luck, but over all, we lead a wonderful and serendipitous life!